Circumcision,
the ancient ritual of removing the foreskin, is common to Judaism, Islam, and
some Christian groups. Often performed on infants, it’s a symbol of faith,
purity, and sometimes health. In Morocco, circumcision is referred to as t’hara,
meaning purification, and is celebrated by families with parties that range
from simple to grand, depending on means and custom.
In
my case, as part of a large family of siblings and cousins, the circumcision
was a group event, shared with my younger brother Abdelmajid and our cousin
Hamid, who was the youngest. I was the eldest, almost six, and many details
remain etched in my memory as if it all happened yesterday. I never understood
why my family had waited so long to circumcize me, though there is no fixed age
for it in Islam.
Our
celebration took place on a summer day in the sixties. My family pitched a
series of popular Amazigh black tents for the guests: separate ones for men,
women, and young men. In each, the best carpets were spread, tables set, and
tea essentials readied days in advance. Tea, at these gatherings, was more than
a drink; it was the lifeblood of Amazigh hospitality, served continuously
throughout the day. It was a comforting companion that warmed every
conversation.
Family
and neighbors, young and old, arrived in their finest traditional attire. The
women wore ornate kaftans and elegant takchitas—two-layered
kaftans with one simple layer beneath a more decorative outer layer—paired with
impressive, mostly silver jewelry. The men donned light jellabas suited
to the summer heat or mismatched suits. They all arrived on horses, mules, or
donkeys, each decorated with handwoven hanbel rugs. Some rugs were
striped, while others featured intricate patterns and sequins that shimmered in
the sunlight like gem pendents.
The
night before, our hands and feet were covered in henna—a ritual preparation for
the day ahead. My grandmother had dried and ground the plant from Zagora into a
fine powder days before. Close relatives, mostly women, sang and danced to the bendir’s
beat as they applied the paste, continuing late into the night. The young girls
wore delicate henna patterns as well, which I later learned symbolized
blessings for future marriages.
The
following day was a swirl of songs, dances, and the booming sounds of fantasia
horsemanship. Inside the two largest adjoining tents, the men chatted, teased,
and commented on the fantasia, an awe-inspiring display of skilled horsemanship
traditionally performed for family milestones like circumcisions, weddings, and
other festive occasions. Meanwhile, the women sang and danced tirelessly to the
rhythms of bendirs and the strains of a violin skillfully played by a
young boy who had crafted it himself from a tin jerrycan that once held pesticides.
I
enjoyed the atmosphere but sensed something unusual in the air. First, we three
were hennayed and dressed up in a way that felt extravagant, like
bridegooms. Second, I overheard snippets of conversation hinting that we were
the reason for all this attention. Finally, when ahjjam, the barber and a
circumcision expert, arrived, my suspicions were almost confirmed. This barber,
a family friend from Jirry near Meknes, was a polymath—part barber, part
healer, skilled in hijama (cupping), circumcision, and cautery. He
traveled on a prized palomino mule, saddled like a horse, with a white mane
that made it stand out. His presence cemented my growing anxiety.
When
lunch began, the fantasia and dancing paused, and guests settled for the feast:
roasted lamb méchoui,
followed by lamb tajine, and finally couscous with free-range chicken. For
dessert, trays of watermelon and black and yellow grapes were served, all
quickly devoured. Afterward, the true purpose of the gathering became clear. As
talk turned to "the kids" and our names were mentioned here and
there, someone called my name. I darted from the tent and ran as fast as I
could, but my uncle, swift as an eagle, soon caught me by the collar, lifted me
into the air, my legs flailing as I struggled to escape.
Despite
my resistance, ahjjam
had his ways. In mere moments, it was over, and I was in my grandmother’s arms,
sobbing my heart out. My two companions
followed suit, their cries mingling with mine as a circle of women surrounded
us, their ululations and songs filling the air to muffle our sobs. Their songs
included verses like biast
aya hajjam (“Cut it, barber!”) and asi afous nek zik (“Lift your hands
and leave!”).
After
the ordeal, the gift-giving began. Families placed their offerings on tisguit—woven
palm trays carried atop the heads of dancing women—and aghanim sticks notched
along their length, and decorated with hanging paper money, and capped with
mint bouquets. Songs of praise filled the air, celebrating our family ties and
the importance of gift-giving, with verses in Amazigh and occasionally accented
Arabic.
For
several days, I was pampered indoors, my every whim indulged by my grandmother.
Yet, I was kept clad only in a loose daraia tunic, forbidden from
wearing undergarments. Despite this pampering, I craved the fresh air and
freedom outdoors. Within two weeks, I was back to my usual leisure pursuits—running,
climbing trees, and riding animals. However, the experience left a lasting
impression. Years later, when my son underwent circumcision, I found myself
crying downstairs, a surge of sympathy for my parents washing over me.
May
our parents rest in peace. We seldom grasp the depth of their quiet endurance
until we find ourselves walking their path with our own children, feeling the weight
of their sacrifices and love in ways we never could before. Children, it seems,
are born to decipher what our parents left unsaid.